Climb the Himalayan giant, Mt Menaslu, Nepal

INTRODUCTION

At 8156m, Manaslu is the world's eighth highest mountain and a true Himalayan giant situated in Nepal. Like Cho Oyu, it has low technical difficulty and it is an ideal first 8000m peak. We climb Manaslu via the classic North East face. The expedition starts in Kathmandu where we make our final preparations before taking a helicopter to Samagown (3800m) where we will acclimatise for several days with day-walks, before trekking to basecamp at 4800m.

Base camp will be home for up to four weeks while we climb the mountain and so will be as comfortable as possible with plenty of good food. Our second to none sherpa team will prepare the route, fixing ropes and stocking our high camps with food, gas and oxygen so that everything is in place ready for our summit push – on which the sherpas will accompany us. With this state of the art support and leadership from an experienced, fully qualified Dream Guide your chances of success are as high as possible. We have a bigger sherpa team than on Cho Oyu, and the expedition is 5 days longer, to allow for any bad weather during our summit window.

WHO IS IT FOR?

To be prepared for climbing Manaslu, you will need a good grounding in mountaineering and, ideally, have at least climbed to 6000m. Although Manaslu could be considered one of the easier 8000m peaks, it is certainly not 'easy'. You will need strong determination and dedication, as well as good physical fitness and health to reach the summit.

DATES

25th August – 7th October 2010

MEET

People tend to arrive on various different flights, so we will meet you at the airport and transfer you to the hotel. We will then have a group briefing in the hotel on the evening of 28rd August to give you an overview of the trip, to discuss kit and see if anything needs to be hired or bought locally.

MANASLU - TYPICAL ITINERARY

Day 1-2 Fly to Kathmandu (depart 27th, arrive KTM 28th)

Day 3 Final preparations and sightseeing in Kathmandu

Day 4 Take helicopter to Samagown (3800m)

Day 5-7 acclimatisation and day-treks around Samagown

Day 8 Trek to Basecamp (4800m)

Day 9-10 Acclimatisation, resting and sorting kit at Basecamp

Day 11-41 Climb Manaslu

Day 42 Return on foot to Samagown

Day 43 Return to Kathmandu

Day 44 Relaxing in Kathmandu

Day 45 Fly home 10th October (arrive home 11h October)

This itinerary gives an outline of the planned schedule for the expedition, with a built-in contingency in case of lost baggage on arrival at Kathmandu, and in case of adverse travelling conditions on our return from base camp. It also allows gradual acclimatisation on the way up to base camp.

Please note that due to the nature of climbing 8000m peaks, it is necessary to have a flexible plan, so the exact itinerary may change: be it due to factors beyond our control, or to suit the team as a whole. In particular, during the approach, we will endeavour to make progress whilst making sure climbers are acclimatising properly.

THE EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE

As one climbs higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level and so we have to slow down to help compensate. Because we have slowed down, we may feel colder.

Because there is less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness which is like the worst hangover you have ever had (headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness) and can develop into a very serious and even fatal (in extreme cases) problem.

To avoid these problems, enjoy the climbing and increase our chances of summiting we need to acclimatise by spending several days and nights at progressively higher altitudes, so our bodies can adapt. This is a very important part of our preparation.

GETTING TO KATHMANDU

In order to retain flexibility we offer a land-only package and you should arrange your own flights. We recommend doing this as soon in advance as possible, as flights to Nepal can get quite busy. We would also recommend purchasing flexible flight tickets rather than nonrefundable, non-changeable tickets.

We have been impressed by the services of Qatar (via Doha), but other airlines flying to Kathmandu include Virgin (via Delhi), Gulf Air (via Bahrain), Etihad (via Abu Dhabi) and Jet (via Delhi). If flying via Delhi, you will need to organise an Indian visa well in advance – please note you CANNOT obtain a transit visa on arrival in Delhi.

Our service includes an airport transfer to your hotel in Kathmandu, so let us know your flight details and we will pick you up from the airport.

WHAT TO EXPECT ON EXPEDITION

We will be working as an independent team, with logistical/admin back up from our sherpa team and base camp staff. The route will be prepared by the sherpa team while we make acclimatisation forays onto the mountain, moving at our own pace.

As we acclimatise we will venture further and further up staying at the higher camps, eg camps 1(~5900m) and 2 (~6400m) overnight, with returns to base camp for well earned rests! We use 4 intermediate camps at 5900m, 6400m, 6850m and 7400m so that progress is gradual for acclimatising. Once acclimatised, a rest of about 4 days at basecamp gives us the strength for a summit push.

Descent will be swift with a night at camp 2 en route to BC. Acclimatising forays and returning to base camp means we adapt to the altitude, whilst allowing our bodies and minds to recuperate. We have a very flexible approach to our climbing tactics and frequently use intermediate camps. The camp positions and tactics will be decided during the expedition to best suit the conditions and climbers.

Climbing the trek from Samagown to Base Camp is over rough paths with great views. From BC (4800m) to camp 1 (5900m) we climb up moraine and then a glacier, which depending on snow conditions (which will change throughout the expedition) we may have to rope up on or use fixed rope – this trip takes about 4 hours or so. From Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6400) we climb gentle glacial slopes up to a steeper snow slope which we climb with fixed ropes - this takes about 5 hours. Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6800m) is a shorter day (4 hours) up a glacial slope to a high col with spectacular views.

From camp 3 to camp 4 takes about 4-5 hours and is up steeper, icier terrain on several fixed ropes to 7400m. From camp 4 we climb to the summit, mostly over gentle snow slopes but with several steeper sections along the way, and this takes 5 or 6 hours. After reaching the summit we will plan to descend to camp 3 or 2 for an overnight rest, and descend to basecamp the following day…

All climbing on Manaslu above camp 1 is on glaciated snow and icy slopes, with the steeper sections prepared with fixed rope. Any more heavily crevassed sections will be prepared with fixed rope or traversed whilst roped up in a conventional ‘alpine’ way.

Base Camp This will be as comfortable as possible given expedition conditions. You will have individual tents with thick sleeping pads and a shared mess tent and shared comms tent. Our camp cooks are well-versed in hygiene and catering for western tastes. There will be three tasty and nutritious meals a day plus snacks and drinks. There are chairs, tables, lighting and gasheating in the mess tent. Internet and phone access (satelite phone) is available, as is a selection of DVDs.

A barrel of snack food and ‘goodies’ will be available to dip into during rest days.

High Camps will be stocked with food and gas by our sherpas. Tents will be North Face VE25s and Mountain 47’s. We will be cooking for ourselves. Oxygen will be stocked at camp 4, ready for the summit push.

Food Once we reach Samagown (by helicopter), we will be eating food from our own supplies. When staying above BC: ie during the main climbing forays, breakfast, lunch and dinner will be a combination of boil-in-the-bag ‘wayfarer’ type meals and snack bars (Mars, Snickers, chocolate, soft muesli bars, etc according to your taste), noodles, biscuits/cakes, soups, tea/coffee, hot chocolate, cordial. There will be plenty of food.

Normally appetite is diminished at altitude, but food will be stocked on the basis of a full appetite. In total you can expect to spend about 14 days staying above base camp, split up with spells in base camp. When at Base Camp and Samagowan: this food will be eaten during rest days and during acclimatisation forays when we are overnighting in BC/Samagown. It will be a very western, tasty and plentiful diet.

Breakfast: eg. cereals, porridge, eggs, powdered milk, bread/toast, bacon,

Lunch: eg. A hot meal or sandwiches, cheese, jam, meat. Snack bars.

Evening: eg. soup, rice dishes, curry, dhal, spaghetti dishes, potatoes, homemade pizza, chips, lasagne etc. There will be plenty of fresh vegetables and meat every day, and puddings.

Vegetables will mostly be root veg (carrots etc), cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes and onions, due to storage. There will be some fresh fruit (eg oranges) and also tinned fruit, nuts, butter, cheese and a variety of sauces (ketchup, mustard, chilli sauce etc).

Drinks include tea, coffee, infusions, cordial/tang, hot chocolate, water. Some soft drinks and beer are available at a small cost. There will be a variety of biscuits, pringles, bars and cakes available to snack on through the day...

PLEASE let us know your snack bar preferences and whether you are vegetarian or not on the booking form. Also let us know any favourite dishes, so we can stock accordingly. The snack bar stock can be supplemented in Kathmandu with western brand bars, if you anticipate eating a lot of them. The cooks are well-versed in personal hygiene and have a good repertoir of ‘western’ and local recipes eg. pizza, chips, omelettes, curry, spaghetti dishes etc.

OTHER INFO

Temperatures below BC:

It will be warm/hot during good weather and cooler in the evenings (light clothing). At BC in the middle of the day, in good weather it will be warm (light clothing), but in poor weather/not in the sun and at night it will be cold (down jacket, trousers, hat etc). It can snow at this level. When above BC and moving, clothing needs will vary from just a thermal top to full down clothing as we get higher. Out of the sun and in the evenings it will be cold, requiring down clothing.

Skiing:

If you are an expert skier with considerable ski touring experience, skiing from the summit is an option. Please discuss this with Guy Willett before booking.

Guide Guy Willett (IFMGA, doctor, guided on Cho Oyu 2006) and Rob Casserley (multiple Everest and Cho Oyu summits, doctor) will be a second guide (depending on final numbers in the team) Note: guide or guides to be confirmed.

Sherpas:

There will be at least 3 sherpas per 4 team members preparing the route, load carrying, and camp stocking, who will also be with us on summit day. They will be from Pangboche. They are all part of our regular, loyal and experienced sherpa team with multiple summit successes on Everest, Cho Oyu and Manaslu.

Communications:

There will be internet access at basecamp via a Bgan (ie almost broadband). Base camp and climber communication will be maintained with handheld Icom radios with a base station. This enables comms between base camp and climbers, and climber to climber. A laptop will be available in base camp. You may bring your own, but they may not work at altitude/under expedition conditions.

Power is from large solar panels at base camp. You will be able to recharge batteries, cameras etc, and plug in electrical appliances.

The Nature of Expeditions:

Our guides, agent and sherpas will do their best to make the expedition smooth and successful, but please note that expeditions to the Himalayas are remote and a team experience. During the trip all team members will need to work together and get involved in various aspects of organisation, camp life and climbing life. The success of individuals and harmony of the trip as a whole is dependent on this team effort.

In addition, please remember that climbing an 8000m peak is inherently arduous and hazardous for everyone. In remote areas it is very important to make sure you are healthy and avoid injury, as medical facilities will not be close-by. Evacuation due to injury/illness is difficult (there are no helicopters available in Tibet) and may take several days.

In particular try and make sure you are healthy before departure by having a check-up with your GP and avoid illness early in the trip by only drinking boiled/bottled water/drinks and avoiding unpasteurised milk. Guiding and climbing on 8000m peaks is not the same as climbing and guiding in the Alps or UK.

There will be fixed ropes on difficult/exposed/crevassed sections of the climb and sometimes we may rope up as a team due to conditions at the time (eg bad weather or lots of fresh snow), but there may be times when it is appropriate or desirable (as judged by the guide) for individuals to move between camps or stay in a camp unsupervised. This is where your previous mountaineering experience comes into play, in addition to instruction given at base camp (how to use radios, fixed ropes, oxygen etc).

SUMMIT DAY

On summit day you will be accompanied at all times, either by a guide or sherpa.

Please be aware Disruption to the expedition itinerary may occur for a number of reasons outside our control. These could range from bad weather, landslides etc to strikes, civil unrest etc to illness or injury. In the same way, due to the expedition environment, we cannot guarantee that communication equipment such as computers will work all the time. You may not be able to communicate with home or sponsors for periods of time. We will be immersed in a different local culture. Please respect this with sensible dress and politeness.

FURTHER INFO

What the price includes:

Guides’ fees and expenses

Sherpas

2 bottles of oxygen per person

Emergency oxygen

Base camp setup

Ropes

Tents

Cooking equipment/fuel

Base camp and hill food (minus your supplements)

Internal transport (including airport transfers)

Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu according to itinerary

Hotels/accommodation in transit according to the itinerary

Meals in transit (except lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu)

Group medical kit

Communication equipment

Samagown helicopter flights

nternal transport of upto 35kg of personal kit to and from basecamp

Not included in the price:

Visa costs

Airport taxes

Any personal shipping

International flights

Insurance

Tips

Early/late departure costs from base camp (e.g. additional accommodation in Kathmandu, extra helicopter flights)

Internet time ($18 per megabyte)

Satellite phone calls ($6 per minute)

Personal equipment as set out in kit list

Drinks (except boiled water) in transit

Meals/accommodation outside the itinerary

Sightseeing trips

Passports and Visas:

Everyone visiting Nepal must have a full passport and entry visa. You can apply for your visa in advance from the Nepalese embassy in your home country, or you can obtain one on arrival at Kathmandu airport. For this you will need a passport photo and cash (dollars are preferable, but euros & sterling are also accepted). The current price of visa on arrival is £20. Bring 4 spare passport photos and ensure your passport is valid for at least 6 months after your return to the UK, and has 3 blank pages. Up to date information is available at travcour.com.

Vaccinations and Health:

You should consult your doctor 3 months before departure for up to date information about vaccination requirements, but we would recommend the following vaccinations: Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid, Hepatitis A and Japanese Encephalitis. If you are intending to extend your trip to visit the Terai region of Nepal (including Chitwan National Park) you might consider malaria prophylaxis.

We would also advise asking your GP for a prescription for antibiotics to cover chest infection and bowels, for your personal first aid kit, and you should discuss any health concerns you have with your GP. We would also recommend visiting your dentist before a long trip to altitude.

Climbing Permit:

We will apply for the climbing permit on July 1st. Medical Kit Please see the Kit List for personal first aid kit requirements. The group kit will include emergency drugs for high altitude illnesses, anaphylaxis, trauma and infections. There will also be a supply of miscellaneous items to cover common ailments (strepsils, bandages, painkillers, electrolyte replacement etc).

Money and tipping:

We recommend bringing cash and credit cards - there are many ATM machines in Kathmandu. We would also recommend bringing $1000 in cash, as a contingency during the trip (also covers visas/airport taxes/tips). Dollars can readily be exchanged into rupees locally.

If you plan to spend cash on souvenirs etc, you will need more. Tipping the local staff in Nepal is standard - your guide/s will assist with organising and collecting this. The international departure tax from Nepal is currently 1695 rupees.

Insurance:

We recommend BMC Expedition insurance - it is comprehensive, tried and tested. They have a lot of experience in dealing with mountaineering emergencies and provide a good service. Purchase insurance before flights and make sure cancellation, rescue and medical expenses are covered. Please send a copy of your insurance details to us and bring the original to Kathmandu.

TRAINING FOR MANASLU

To maximise your chance of summiting Manaslu it is important to get as fit as you possibly can. If you have already been to altitude (6000-7000m), you will have some idea of the endurance required to get there. To summit an 8000m peak, you are upping the endurance test even further…so prior preparation is paramount to success.

The process of training for your goal will help you focus on your goal, and having a goal will help you focus on your training. So all in all, training is good!

Mountaineering is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours (typically 5-12 hours) and your training should reflect this. Although all but our summit day will (hopefully!) be less than 6 hours or so, the high altitude really takes its toll (and it feels like a longer day).

Probably the best training is going on long days hill walking as this simulates the real thing as closely as possible and prepares the mind (exercising for long periods in poor weather requires mental strength!) However not everyone has the opportunity to do this and so alternatives such as running, cycling and gym workouts are good.

The focus should be on training Cardiovascular endurance and so if in the gym, cycling/running/rowing machines are much better than weight training. Try and exercise for up to a couple of hours at a time, 4 times a week. Remember to build up your workouts over time. If you are not used to exercising much, your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury.

Try and choose an activity that you enjoy and keep a note of what you do and your times – this really helps with keeping the motivation up. If you are not used to training then your local gym will be able to advise you on a plan and schedule to help you achieve your goals. Training does not work overnight! The fittest athletes train as part of their lifestyles and have been doing it for years – so you should start your training at least 6 months before the expedition.

It is important to arrive in Nepal fit and healthy – so look after yourself before your expedition, don’t overdo the training, and don’t start a diet before you get here – you will lose weight at altitude and will need all your strength on the mountain, so give yourself a head start and arrive in Nepal feeling strong!

KIT LIST

In general, we use and endorse Mountain Hardwear products because in our experience they are excellent….so in some cases we’ve recommended particular items of their kit. If you go to a good retailer such as Snow & Rock, explain to them you will be climbing Manaslu and they will be able to advise you on what is best for you. Bring this list with you…and we recommend compiling this list sooner rather than later!

Clothes to travel in:

Trekking clothes (it will be hot)

Mountain clothes (it will be cold)

Remember at altitude, everything is hard work and so kit should be easy to use, lightweight and fit properly. Remember the layering system...

Trekking/Travelling:

T-shirts

Trousers - trek pant/pack pant

Underwear

Socks

Shorts

Trainers/sandals

Lightweight trekking boots for walk in

Climbing clothing:

1. 2 x thermal tops (light coloured preferably)

2. 1 x long johns – (power stretch tight)

3. Fleece trousers/salopettes

4. Soft shell/schoeller fabric trousers optional – (tanglewood softshell pant)

5. Thin fleece top - microchill zip T

6. Thick fleece top - monkey man

7. Down duvet jacket/pants - sub zero jacket and absolute zero pants*

8. Down suit or jacket - (absolute zero suit or parka and pants)*

9. Goretex jacket and trousers - roomy but not tent-like argon/beryllium/xenon/pinnacle jacket and argon ice/pinnacle pants

10. Warm windproof hat - windstopper microdome

11. Balaclava - power stretch, butter or windstopper flex balaclava

12. Sun hat

13. Scarf/neckerchief - to keep sun off neck

14. Big Mitts - absolute zero mitt (to fit over thin/power stretch gloves)

15. Thick weather proof gloves (ie as used in Alps) - consider a spare pair too – lightspeed/spearhead glove

16. 2 x pairs thin gloves - power stretch

17. 3 x sets of socks

18. Double plastic mountaineering boots (scarpa vega High altitude) with overboots (forty below purple haze) or olympus mons type boot

19. Gaiters - make sure they fit over boots - FTX ventigaiter or ascent stretch gaiter

20. 2 x pairs Sunglasses - maximum UV protection (category 4)

21. Goggles

22. Neoprene facemask

On Everest a down suit is necessary, on Manaslu a suit is nice but not necessary. If buying a suit, you still need a down jacket (sub zero) and it is nice to have chugach 3Dpants for base camp.If you are not buying a suit you will need a warmer down jacket (absolute zero) for on the hill and it is nice to have a lighter down jacket (eg a sub zero) for base camp. chugach pants will do for base camp and on the hill, but you should consider taking absolute zero pants for summit

day.

Climbing gear and kit for base camp:

1. 30l daysack for walk in etc

2. 60+l rucksack for climbing (carrying sleeping bag, spare clothing, food, water) minimal straps, light, comfortable. Crux and macpac make good rucksacks

3. Trekking poles

4. Sleeping bag - down 5 seasons. Two sleeping bags are highly recommended (one to be left in high camps) - eg ghost SL (-40) for high camps, 2nd bag rated to -20 for BC.

5. Thermarest - full length

6. Karrimat/ridgerest sleeping pad (optional)

7. Water bottles - for 2l. Nalgene recommended. Platypus/camelbak not recommended except for up to BC.

8. Water bottle insulators - by outdoor research

9. Pee bottle - wide necked nalgene

10. Headtorch - LED and long range bulbs. Spare lightweight one useful - petzl tikka or tikka XP

11. Sunscreen - factor 30+

12. Lipsalve - 2 or 3

13. Penknife

14. Spare batteries - lithium work better in the cold

15. Wet wipes

16. Footpowder

17. Travel towel

18. Travel wash -to wash your smalls etc at basecamp

19. Toiletries

20. Books to read

21. iPod

22. Insulated mug

23. Stuff sacks/large plastic bags to keep kit dry and stored

24. Personal First Aid Kit - lots of painkillers (codeine, paracetamol, ibuprofen), diamox (for altitude sickness), strepsils, blister kit, plasters, dioralyte, immodium, antiseptic cream (savlon). 2 x courses of antibiotics recommended (for chest and bowels). Low dose aspirin to help ‘thin’ your blood (consult your doctor first)

25. Personal Repair Kit - sewing kit, thermarest repair stuff, spare parts and adjustment tools for crampons. Spare buckles, prussik cord, duct tape. Spare boot laces

Climbing Hardwear:

1. Walking Ice Axe 60-70cm (unless you are very short!) - petzl snow walker

2. Crampons - make sure they fit with overboots plus antiball plates - not aluminium

3. Harness - adjustable waist and legloops - to fit over clothing

4. 1 x jumar

5. 4 metres of 8mm dynamic climbing cord

6. Belay plate (or figure 8)

7. 4 x wide gate screwgate karabiners - easy to use with gloves on

8. 4 x snap link karabiners

9. Helmet(optional) - we don’t take them.

Remember hands and feet are important - keep them warm!

Down kit should be baffle-sewn and not sewn-through stitching.

MORE INFO AND BOOKING

We recommend travelling in trekking clothing, with your day-sac for carry on baggage. Remainder of kit packed in 2 duffel bags to check in (no individual bag can weigh more than 30kg).

Don’t forget your plane tickets, passport and insurance documents, or passport photos!

To find out more about the expedition, availability, or to ask any questions, please get in touch with us by clicking on the "Contact the seller" link in this listing.

Look forward to seeing you soon!

TIME SCALE FOR MANASLU 2009

• Now: £600 deposit due to Dream Guides
• See GP for Innoculations and check up.
• Return medical questionnaire
• Return booking form
• Buy Insurance and send a photocopy to Dream Guides
• Book flights to Kathmandu (leaving UK 27th August, return 10th October)
• Assemble personal kit
• 23rd April: 50% of total due to Dream Guides
• 23rd June: Total balance due to Dream Guides
• 1st July: Passport photocopy, personal ‘bio’ form, 2 passport photos (name on back)required for climbing permit. Send to Dream Guides. Also email a high resolution scan of your passport details/photo page.

• 27th August: Fly to Kathmandu

Who we are

Guy Willett, Kenton Cool & friends. We are both IFMGA and British Mountain Guides. This is the highest possible qualification, and a legal requirement to guide in the Alps. All our guides are personally chosen by us for their ability, personality and approach to ensure a great Dream Guides experience.

Our approach

We offer a friendly and personal service. We are passionate about what we do and think this comes through in our guiding! Our goal is to make your mountain holiday or adventure the best you've had...if you are not having fun, neither are we! We can't guarantee achieving your goals but we will try our very best to (and usually do!).

Where are we?

We are based in Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc. We not only have expert knowledge of the fantastic local skiing and climbing, but also nearby Switzerland and Italy aswell. Our guides and office staff have climbed and skied and travelled extensively throughout the world and are a great source of knowledge and expertise for all our courses and expeditions.