Climb Everest (8850m)

INTRODUCTION

It is truly an emotional moment standing on top of the world after all the time, effort and preparation that it takes to get there. The sense of relief and achievement on returning to base camp stay with you for ever.

For many mountaineers, climbing Everest (8850m) is the ultimate goal. At Dream Guides we recognise that for most people, going on an expedition to climb the world’s highest mountain is a once in a lifetime opportunity. We want you to get to the top and back - safely. With this in mind, we climb Everest from the south side, via the south col route. Generally, it is milder and less windy than the north side with less time spent at extreme altitude. This translates into a higher success rates and safer track records.

The expedition starts in Kathmandu before flying to Lukla and walking into base camp over nine days, giving plenty of time to acclimatise and take in the scenery on the way. Base camp will be home for up to seven weeks while we climb the mountain and so will be as comfortable as possible with plenty of good food. Our strong Sherpa team will prepare the route, fixing ropes and stocking our high camps with food, gas and oxygen so that everything is in place ready for our summit push - which they will accompany us on. With this state of the art support and leadership from Kenton Cool (the most successful European guide on Everest) your chances of success are as high as possible.

Who is it for?

To be prepared for climbing Everest, you will need a good grounding in mountaineering and have at least climbed to 6000m. Climbing an 8000m peak such as Manaslu (8156m) or Cho Oyu (8201m) before going to Everest is the ideal preparation, giving you the experience and confidence in your ability to operate at extreme altitude. You will need strong determination and dedication, as well as good physical fitness and health to reach the summit.

Meet:

People tend to arrive on various different flights, so we will meet you at the airport and transfer you to the hotel. We will then have a group briefing in the hotel on the evening of 4th April to give you an overview of the trip, to discuss kit and see if anything needs to be hired or bought locally.

EVEREST - TYPICAL ITINERARY

• Day 1-2: Fly to Kathmandu (depart UK 3rd April, arrive Kathmandu 4th April)
• Day 3: Final preparations and sightseeing in Kathmandu
• Day 4: Fly to Lukla
• Day 5: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450m)
• Day 6: Rest day in Namche Bazaar to acclimatise
• Day 7: Trek to Deboche
• Day 8: Trek to Dingboche (4410m)
• Day 9: Rest or acclimatisation walk from Dingboche
• Day 10: Trek to Lobuche (4900m)
• Day 11: Trek to Gorak Shep (5220m)
• Day 12: Trek to Base Camp (5400m)
• Day 13-57: Climb Everest
• Day 58: Trek down to Dingboche. Note you can stop at Pheriche on the way down and, at your own expense ($1000), get a helicopter direct to Kathmandu – a popular choice!
• Day 59-61: Trek back down to Lukla
• Day 62: Fly to Kathmandu
• Day 63: Relaxing in Kathmandu Day 64 Return flight home.(June 5th)

This itinerary gives an outline of the planned schedule for the expedition, with a built-in contingency in case of lost baggage on arrival at Kathmandu. It also allows gradual acclimatisation on the way up to base camp, with plenty of time to take in the sights and scenery – this trek itinerary can/will be modified to suit members acclimatisation.

We will have 7 weeks at base camp to maximise the chance of success, and a day’s contingency on the return to Kathmandu.

Please note that due to the nature of climbing 8000m peaks, it is necessary to have a flexible plan, so the exact itinerary may change: be it due to factors beyond our control, or to suit the team as a whole. In addition, we may return to Kathmandu earlier or later than outlined on the itinerary, as we may summit early or late.

The Effects of Altitude:

As one climbs higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is available to us. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level and so we have to slow down to help compensate. Because we have slowed down, we may feel colder.

Our hands and feet, in particular, are prone to getting cold at high altitude because our blood concentrates on getting oxygen to our brain rather than our extremities.

Because the body perceives there is less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness which is like the worst hangover you have ever had (headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness) and can develop into a very serious and even fatal (in extreme cases) problem.

To avoid these problems, enjoy the climbing and increase our chances of summiting we need to acclimatise by spending several days and nights at progressively higher altitudes, so our bodies can adapt. This is a very important part of our preparation.

When climbing at very high altitudes on Everest (camp 3 and above) we will be using supplementary oxygen. This will help keep us warm, speed us up and help avoid altitude illness.

Getting to Kathmandu:

In order to retain flexibility we offer a land-only package and you should arrange your own flights. We recommend doing this as soon in advance as possible, as flights to Nepal can get quite busy. We would also highly recommend purchasing flexible flight tickets rather than non-refundable, non-changeable tickets.

We have been impressed by the services of Qatar (via Doha), but other airlines flying to Kathmandu include Virgin (via Delhi), Gulf Air (via Bahrain), Etihad (via Abu Dhabi) and Jet (via Delhi). If flying via Delhi, you will need to organise an Indian visa well in advance – please note you CANNOT obtain a transit visa on arrival in Delhi.

Our service includes an airport transfer to your hotel in Kathmandu, so let us know your flight details and we will pick you up from the airport.

What to expect on expedition:

After acclimatising around basecamp and practicing fixed rope techniques, we venture through the icefall. We will be working as an independent team, with our Sherpas preparing the route ahead of us while we make acclimatisation forays onto the mountain.

We will move at our own pace. During these forays, we will be spending several nights at a time in progressively higher camps, before descending to base camp to rest. Typically, most of our acclimatisation nights are spent at camp 2 (6400m) and we will have 2 or 3 acclimatisation forays before the summit push – the exact plan will be decided by Kenton, taking into account weather/conditions and how each team member is doing.

Kenton’s expertise will ensure the best acclimatisation for the team. The final acclimatisation trip will involve sleeping at, or just tagging camp 3. The team now descends to base camp (or lower down the valley) for 4/5 days rest before a summit push.

The summit push involves climbing to camp 2, possibly a rest day, and then up to and overnight in camp 3, then camp 4 for a few hours rest and the summit. Descent will be swift with a night at camp 2 en route to BC. Acclimatising and returning to base camp means we adapt to the altitude, whilst allowing our bodies and minds to recuperate. Above camp 3 we will be using oxygen.

The Climbing Trekking from Lukla to base camp (5400m) is on well trodden dusty paths, staying in teahouses en route. Base camp is on a glacial moraine. To camp 1 (6000m) we climb through the Khumbu icefall and a short section of glacier. To camp 2 (6300m) we travel further up the glacier to the Western Cwm.

To camp 3 (part way up the Lhotse face at 7100m) involves climbing up the remaining glacier and then ascending a 45 degree snow/ice slope (6 hours). To camp 4 (South Col, 7900m) involves climbing the remaining part of the Lhotse face and traversing snow and rock steps across the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur (8 hours).

Summit day starts at about 10pm, traversing the Balcony, up to the South Summit, over the Hillary Step and on to the main summit - it will be a long day. Much of the ground above camp 3 is exposed, mountaineering terrain. All difficult/ exposed/ crevassed sections will have fixed rope.

Base Camp This will be as comfortable as possible given expedition conditions. You will have individual tents, with a thick camping mattress and a shared carpeted and heated mess tent and shared comms tent. Shared camp cooks. Three plentiful and tasty hot meals a day plus snacks and drinks.

Seating, tables, heating and lighting. Internet and phone access (satellite phone and BGAN). A selection of DVDs. Access to solar power to recharge cameras/ipods etc. Access to base camp Doctor (free consultation, but you are charged for medications which you can reclaim on insurance) in addition to our ‘in – house’ doctor, Rob Casserley. Basic shower facility. Toilet tent.

High Camps will be stocked with food and gas/stoves/pans by our Sherpas. Tents will be North Face VE25s and Mountain 47’s. We will be cooking for ourselves at camp 1, 3 and 4. Cooking and mess tent are provided at Camp 2 – our main acclimatisation camp.

You will be sharing 2 to a tent in high camps (this is still comfortable but adds extra warmth and makes team cooking easier).

Food Between Kathmandu and base camp we will be eating in hotels, tea houses and restaurants. At base camp and above we will be eating food from our own supplies. Below is an outline list/typical menu of what we will eat.

When staying above BC: ie during the main climbing forays, breakfast, lunch and dinner will be a combination of boil-in-the-bag ‘wayfarer’ type meals and snack bars (Mars, Snickers, chocolate, soft muesli bars, etc according to your taste), noodles, biscuits/cakes, soups, instant porridge, crackers, cheese spread, pate, tea/coffee, hot chocolate, cordial. There will be plenty of food. Normally appetite is diminished at altitude, but food will be stocked on the basis of a full appetite. In total you can expect to spend a minimum of 12 days staying above base camp, split up with spells in base camp.

When at Base Camp and Camp 2: this food will be cooked for you and will be eaten during rest days and during acclimatisation forays when we are over-nighting in BC/Camp 2. It will be a very western, tasty and plentiful diet.

• Breakfast: e.g. cereals, porridge, eggs, powdered milk, bread/toast, pancakes & syrup

• Lunch: e.g. A hot meal or sandwiches, cheese, jam, meat. Snack bars.

• Evening: e.g. soup, rice dishes, curry, dhal, spaghetti dishes, potatoes, homemade pizza, chips etc. There will be plenty of fresh vegetables and meat everyday, and puddings. Vegetables will mostly be root veg (carrots etc), cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes and onions, due to storage. There will be some fresh fruit (e.g. oranges) and also tinned fruit, nuts, butter, cheese and a variety of sauces (ketchup, mustard, chilli sauce etc).

• Drinks include tea, coffee, infusions, cordial/tang, hot chocolate, water. Some soft drinks and beer are available at a small cost. There will be a variety of biscuits, pringles, bars and cakes available to snack on through the day...

PLEASE let us know your snack bar preferences and whether you are vegetarian or not on the booking form. Also let us know any favourite dishes, so we can stock accordingly. The snack bar stock can be supplemented in Kathmandu with western brand bars, if you anticipate eating a lot of them.

The cooks are well-versed in personal hygiene and have a good repertoir of ‘western’ and local recipes eg. pizza, chips, omelettes, curry, spaghetti dishes etc.

Note: much of the food is sourced locally, but some is shipped in from the UK, to provide a varied and appealing diet.

Temperatures Below BC it will be warm/hot during good weather and cooler in the evenings (light clothing). At BC in the middle of the day, in good weather it will be warm (light clothing), but in poor weather/not in the sun and at night it will be cold (down jacket, trousers, hat etc). It can snow at this level. When above BC and moving, clothing needs will vary from just a thermal top to full down clothing as we get higher. Out of the sun and in the evenings it will be cold, requiring down clothing.

Why Dream Guides?

• Second to none Guide team
• Second to none Sherpa team
• Ample oxygen
• State of the art Base Camp set up

These factors are all key to our enviable – and unmatched! – success rate on Everest.

Guide Kenton Cool:

Kenton is an IFMGA guide who has guided Everest 7 times – no other European has this record. He has expert knowledge of the workings of running harmonious and successful expeditions to Everest. Kenton’s track record is second to none and this makes him one of the most sought after Everest guides worldwide.

Dr Rob Casserley Rob is a qualified GP with extensive knowledge of expedition medicine. He has climbed Everest 5 times and is a machine at high altitude! As our assistant guide and resident doctor, he is an invaluable and irreplaceable asset.

Sherpas There will be a 1:1 Sherpa:climber ratio – this is a state of the art ratio.

The Sherpas will be preparing the route, load carrying and camp stocking, and will also be with us on summit day. They are from Pangboche a small village in the Khumbu that we trek through on the way to base camp. They are all part of our regular, loyal and highly experienced Sherpa team – we’ve worked with them for many years and we know they are strong on the hill!

Over the years they have become our friends and their enthusiasm, depth of experience and natural ability at high altitude make them a key asset to the success and safety of our expeditions.

Oxygen We provide up to 8x4l bottles of oxygen, which is plenty for a successful summit with ample contingency. We also provide a regulator and TopOut mask. Kenton and Rob were instrumental in field testing early prototypes of the TopOut mask and it is the best mask available.

Communications:

There will be internet access at base camp via a satellite Bgan (ie

almost broadband). A laptop will be available in base camp. You may bring your own, but they may not work at altitude/under expedition conditions. There will be a satellite phone for your use. Base camp and climber communication will be maintained with handheld icom radios with base station. This enables comms between base camp and climbers and climber to climber.

Power is from large solar panels at base camp. You will be able to recharge batteries, cameras etc, and plug in electrical appliances.

The Nature of Expeditions Our guides, agent and Sherpas will do their best to make the expedition smooth and successful, but please note that expeditions to the Himalayas are remote and a team experience. During the trip all team members will need to work together and get involved in various aspects of organisation, camp life and climbing life. The success of individuals and the harmony of the trip as a whole is dependent on this team effort.

In addition, please remember that climbing an 8000m peak is inherently arduous and hazardous for everyone. In remote areas it is very important to make sure you are healthy and avoid injury, as medical facilities will not be close-by. In particular try and make sure you are healthy before departure by having a check-up with your GP and avoid illness early in the trip by only drinking boiled/bottled water/drinks and avoiding un-pasteurised milk.

Guiding and climbing on 8000m peaks is not the same as climbing and guiding in the Alps or UK. There will be fixed ropes on difficult/exposed/crevassed sections of the climb and sometimes we may rope up as a team due to conditions at the time (e.g. bad weather or lots of fresh snow), but there may be times when it is appropriate or desirable (as judged by the guide) for individuals to move between camps or stay in a camp unsupervised.

This is where your previous mountaineering experience comes into play, in addition to instruction given at base camp (how to use radios, fixed ropes, oxygen etc). On summit day you will be accompanied at all times, either by a guide or Sherpa. Disruption to the expedition itinerary may occur for a number of reasons outside our control. These could range from bad weather, landslides etc, strikes & civil unrest etc, to illness or injury.

In the same way, due to the expedition environment, we cannot guarantee that communication equipment such as computers will work all the time. You may not be able to communicate with home or sponsors for periods of time.We will be immersed in a different local culture. Please respect this with sensible dress and politeness.

INCLUSIONS/EXCLUSIONS:

Price includes:

• Guides’ fees and expenses
• Sherpas (and associated expenses)
• 8x4l bottles of oxygen per person (with regulator and TopOut mask)
• Emergency oxygen
• Base camp set up, ropes, tents
• Cooking equipment/fuel
• Base camp and hill food (minus your supplements)
• Internal transport (including return flight to Lukla)
• Hotels/teahouses and meals (except lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu)
• Group medical kit
• Communication equipment
• Access to a base camp doctor
• All permit fees
• Porterage of 30kg of personal kit to/from basecamp

Not included in the price:

• Visa costs
• Airport taxes
• Any personal shipping
• International flights
• Insurance
• Tips
• Internet time (approx $8 per megabyte)
• Satellite phone calls (approx $2.50 per minute)
• Personal equipment as set out in kit list
• Drinks (except boiled water)
• Sherpa summit bonus
• Medication costs at base camp or clinics
• Hotels/meals outside the itinerary
• Sightseeing trips
• Lukla Flights

The price above includes the cost of Lukla flights, however, for legal reasons, we will deduct the cost of the flights before final payment and ask you to bring this in cash to Kathmandu to pay the airline directly.

OTHER INFO

Passports and Visas Everyone visiting Nepal must have a full passport and entry visa. You can apply for your visa in advance from the Nepalese embassy in your home country, or you can obtain one on arrival at Kathmandu airport (recommended).

For this you will need a passport photo and cash (dollars are preferable, but euros & sterling are also accepted). The current price of visa on arrival is £75 or $100 (up to 90 days stay). If a visa extension is required (due to late summit) this will be obtained in country by our agent.

Please bring 4 spare passport photos and ensure your passport is valid for at least 6 months after your return to the UK, and has 3 blank pages. Up to date information is available at travcour.com.

Vaccinations and Health:

You should consult your doctor 3 months before departure for up to date information about vaccination requirements, but we would recommend the following vaccinations: Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid and Hepatitis A. If you are intending to extend your trip to visit the Terai region of Nepal (including Chitwan National Park) you might consider malaria prophylaxis.

We would also advise asking your GP for a prescription for antibiotics to cover chest infection and bowels, for your personal first aid kit, and you should discuss any health concerns you have with your GP.

Issues for your GP:

1. You could talk to your GP about the pros and cons of taking low dose aspirin at altitude.

2. In particular, if you are a woman and on oral contraceptives, you should discuss this with your GP – we don’t recommend oral contraceptives at altitude as they are prothrombotic.

3. discuss management of any long term ailments/illnesses you may have

Please be thorough when filling in our Medical Form.

We would also recommend visiting your dentist before a long trip to altitude.

Climbing Permit:

We normally apply for the climbing permit in January, but it is usually possible to alter names and numbers if need be. Medical Kit Please see the Kit List for personal first aid kit requirements. If you are prone to an ailment then come prepared (eg lots of allergies? Bring lots of antihistamine and skin cream). The group kit will be comprehensive and include emergency drugs for high altitude illnesses, anaphylaxis, trauma and infections. There will also be a supply of miscellaneous items to cover common ailments (strepsils, bandages, painkillers, electrolyte replacement etc).

Money and tipping We recommend bringing cash and credit cards - there are many ATM machines in Kathmandu. We would also recommend bringing 1500$ in cash, as a contingency during the trip (also covers visas/airport taxes/tips). Dollars can readily be exchanged into Rupees locally.

If you plan to spend cash on souvenirs etc, you will need more. Tipping the local staff in Nepal/Tibet is standard - your guide(s) will assist with organising and collecting this. The international departure tax from Nepal is currently 1695 rupees.

Shipping You should be able to keep your kit to the 30 kg baggage limit, but if you wish to ship any food or kit, please refer to the attached shipping information page.

Insurance:

If not using Dream Guides Insurance, we recommend BMC Expedition insurance - it is comprehensive, tried and tested. They have a lot of experience in dealing with mountaineering emergencies and provide a good service. Purchase insurance before flights and make sure cancellation, rescue and medical expenses are covered. Please send a copy of your insurance details to us and bring the original to Kathmandu.

TRAINING FOR EVEREST

To maximise your chance of summiting Everest it is important to get as fit as you possibly can. If you have already been to altitude (6000-7000m), you will have some idea of the endurance required to get there. To summit an 8000m peak, you are upping the endurance test even further … so prior preparation is paramount to success. The process of training for your goal will help you focus on your goal, and having a goal will help you focus on your training. So all in all, training is good!

Mountaineering is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours (typically 5-12 hours) and your training should reflect this.

Probably the best training is going on long days hill walking as this simulates the real thing as closely as possible and prepares the mind (exercising for long periods in poor weather requires mental strength!) However not everyone has the opportunity to do this and so alternatives such as running, cycling and gym workouts are good.

The focus should be on training Cardiovascular Endurance and so if in the gym, cycling/running/rowing machines are much better than weight training. Try and exercise for up to a couple of hours at a time, 4 times a week. If possible have longer training sessions on your days off from work. Remember to build up your workouts over time. If you are not used to exercising much, your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury.

Try and choose an activity that you enjoy and keep a note of what you do and your times – this really helps with keeping the motivation up. If you are not used to training then your local gym will be able to advise you on a plan and schedule to help you achieve your goals. Training does not work overnight! The fittest athletes train as part of their lifestyles and have been doing it for years – so you should start your training at least 6 months before the expedition.

It is important to arrive in Nepal fit and healthy – so look after yourself before your expedition, don’t overdo the training, and don’t start a diet before you get here – you will lose weight at altitude and will need all your strength on the mountain, so give yourself a head start and arrive in Nepal feeling strong!

KIT LIST

In general, we use and endorse Mountain Hardwear products because in our experience they are excellent … so in some cases we’ve recommended particular items of their kit. We recommend compiling this list sooner rather than later! If you have any questions about kit please get in touch!

• Clothes to travel in
• Trekking clothes (it will be hot)
• Mountain clothes (it will be cold)

Remember at altitude, everything is hard work and so kit should be easy to use, lightweight and fit properly. Remember the layering system...

Trekking/Travelling

• T-shirts
• Trousers - trek pant/pack pant
• Underwear
• Socks
• Shorts
• Trainers/sandals
• Lightweight trekking boots for walk in

Climbing clothing

1. 2 x thermal tops (light coloured preferably)

2. 1 x long johns – (power stretch tight)

3. Fleece trousers/salopettes

4. Soft shell/schoeller fabric trousers optional – (tanglewood softshell pant)

5. Thin fleece top - microchill zip T

6. Thick fleece top - monkey man

7. Down duvet jacket/pants - sub zero jacket and chugach synthetic insulated pants – for use lower on mountain/BC*

8. Down suit or jacket and trousers - (absolute zero suit or parka and pants)*

9. Goretex jacket and trousers - roomy but not tent-like –argon/beryllium/xenon/pinnacle jacket and argon ice/pinnacle pants

10. Warm windproof hat - windstopper microdome

11. Balaclava - power stretch, butter or windstopper flex balaclava

12. Sun hat

13. scarf/neckerchief - to keep sun off neck

14. Big Mitts - absolute zero mitt (to fit over thin/power stretch gloves) for summit day

15. Thick weather proof gloves (ie as used in Alps/ski glove type) - consider a spare pair too – lightspeed/spearhead glove

16. 2 x pairs thin gloves - power stretch

17. 3 x sets of socks

18. double plastic mountaineering boots (scarpa vega High altitude) with overboots (forty below purple haze) or olympus mons type boot (highly recommended)

19. consider trainers for BC lounging and a leather ‘alpine climbing’ boot (eg la sportive Nepal Tops) for lower altitude climbing.

19. Gaiters - make sure they fit over boots - FTX ventigaiter or ascent stretch gaiter

20. 2 x pairs Sunglasses - maximum UV protection (category 4) – one is a spare pair

21. Goggles

22. Neoprene facemask

• On Everest a down suit is definitely best, on Cho Oyu a suit is nice but not necessary. If buying a suit, you still need a down jacket (sub zero) and it is nice to have chugach 3Dpants for base camp. If you are not buying a suit you will need a warmer down jacket (absolute zero) for on the hill and it is nice to have a lighter down jacket (eg a sub zero) for base camp. chugach pants will do for base camp and on the hill, but we would recommend taking absolute zero pants for summit day.

Climbing gear and kit for base camp

1. 30l day-sack for walk in etc

2. 60+l rucksack for climbing (carrying sleeping bag, spare clothing, food, water) minimal straps, light, comfortable. Mountain Hardwear and Crux make good rucksacks

3. Trekking poles

4. Sleeping bag - down 5 seasons. Two sleeping bags are highly recommended (one to be left in high camps) - eg ghost SL (-40) for high camps, 2nd bag rated to -20 for BC.

5. Thermarest - full length

6. Karrimat/ridgerest sleeping pad (optional)

7. Water bottles - for 2l. Nalgene recommended. Platypus/camelbak not recommended except for up to BC.

8. Water bottle insulators - by outdoor research

9. Pee bottle - wide necked nalgene

10. Headtorch - LED and long range bulbs. Spare lightweight one useful - petzl tikka or tikka XP

11. Sunscreen - factor 30+

12. Lipsalve - 2 or 3

13. Penknife

14. spare batteries - lithium work better in the cold

15. wet wipes

16. footpowder

17. travel towel

18. Travel wash -to wash your smalls etc at base camp

19. Toiletries including alcoholic hand gel (hand washing) and wet-wipes are good. Small mirror

20. Books to read

21. iPod

22. Insulated mug

23. Stuff sacks/large plastic bags to keep kit dry and stored

24. Insulated mug for camping, spoon

24. Personal First Aid Kit - lots of painkillers (codeine, paracetamol, ibuprofen), diamox (for altitude sickness), strepsils, blister kit, plasters, dioralyte, immodium, antihistamine, antiseptic cream (savlon). 2 x courses of antibiotics recommended (for chest and bowels). Low dose aspirin to help ‘thin’ your blood (consult your doctor first). Most drugs can be bought over the counter in Nepal.

25. Personal Repair Kit - sewing kit, thermarest repair stuff, spare parts and adjustment tools for crampons. Spare buckles, prussik cord, duct tape. Spare boot laces

26. Camera/iPod kit for plugging in/recharging – recharger wires can either finish as a regular plug or car cigarette lighter unit

27. Duffel Bag – for transporting kit on flight – they are good for storing kit in as BC too.

Climbing Hardwear

1. Walking Ice Axe 60-70cm (unless you are very short!) - petzl snow walker

2. Crampons - make sure they fit with overboots plus antiball plates - not aluminium

3. Harness - adjustable waist and leg loops - to fit over clothing – having a ‘belay loop’ on the harness is very useful and a design that is permanently done up and that you just tighten is good too.

4. 1 x jumar and 1 x ‘ropeman’ (Wildcountry)

5. 4 metres of 8mm dynamic climbing cord

6. Belay plate (or figure 8)

7. 4 x wide gate screw-gate karabiners - easy to use with gloves on

8. 4 x snap link karabiners

9. Helmet (optional)

10. 2 x prussic loops

Remember hands and feet are important - keep them warm! Down kit should be baffle-sewn and not sewn-through stitching.

MORE INFO & BOOKING

We recommend travelling in trekking clothing, with your day-sac for carry on baggage. Remainder of kit packed in 2 duffel bags to check in (no individual bag can weigh more than 30kg). Don’t forget your plane tickets, passport and insurance documents, or passport photos.

To find out more about the expedition, availability, or to ask any questions, please get in touch with us by clicking on the "contact the seller" link in this listing.

We look forward to seeing you soon!

EVEREST SHIPPING INFORMATION

You should be able to fit your personal gear into your flight luggage allowance more or less and so shipping is not necessary. However, if you wish to ship gear to Nepal, we can help with that. CONTACT US FOR DETAILS. First off, we would recommend shipping your stuff with our expedition shipment from Manchester.

If you would rather do it yourself we can recommend the following shipping company:

Transglobal Express

Unit 5, The Gateway

Wiral International Business Park

Bromborough

Wirral CH62 3NX

Tel 0870 027 3338 web: transglobalexpress.co.uk

COST: approx £5.50/kg but depends on total weight/number and size of items to be shipped. They accept credit cards over the phone.

DEADLINE: Your barrels, ready to ship, should be available for collection on the 3rd March to ensure they arrive in Kathmandu and are cleared through customs, by our Agent, before our arrival.

PROCEDURE:

1. Pack the items to be shipped securely in blue plastic barrels and weigh them (in kg).

2. Contact Transglobal Express on 4th March to arrange collection and confirm quote/collection details.

3. Write an itemised list of contents for each barrel (Transglobal Express will need this).

4. Write ‘Himalayan Guides Nepal Treks & Expeditions Ltd’ on a piece of paper and put this on top of your items INSIDE the barrel. Seal the Barrel.

5. Ensure the paperwork at Transglobal Express notes the following destination/consignee:

Himalayan Guides Nepal Treks & Expeditions Ltd,

P.O.Box No. 20654 Thamel,

Kathmandu,

Nepal.

5. Ensure the consignee will be notified of arrival

6. Write in the airway bill ‘PERSONAL CLIMBING GEAR’

7. If you need to give an estimated value of contents, give a low number (or nil - NVD), to minimise any tax due in Nepal.

8. Transglobal Express will label each barrel with the ‘airway bill number’

9. Email Dream Guides with the number of barrels shipped and their ‘airway bill numbers’ and the shipping date.

10. We will forward this information to our Agent, so they can ensure all barrels have arrived in Nepal and clear them through customs. Without the Airway Number Bills it is very hard to find and clear the shipped goods in Nepal!!

NOTE: Transglobal ship to Nepal on Saturdays, with the freight arriving in Kathmandu the next day usually. The freight needs to be at Transglobal 2 days before shipping. The price above includes an optional collection service from your home - they need 2 days warning to arrange collection.

It is best if all the barrels are collected from the same place so they go as one unit, making the paperwork more simple in Nepal. There is a week’s contingency built into these dates.

TIME SCALE FOR EVEREST 2010

• Now £600 deposit due to Dream Guides

• See GP for inoculations and check up.

• Return medical questionnaire

• Return booking form

• Buy Insurance and send a photocopy to Dream Guides

• Book flights to Kathmandu (leaving 3rd April, return 3rd June)

• Assemble personal kit

• November 50% of total due to Dream Guides

• 1st Jan Passport photocopy, personal ‘bio’ form, 2 passport photos (name on back) required for climbing permit. Send to Dream Guides. Also email a high resolution scan of your passport details/photo page.

• 25th Jan Total balance due to Dream Guides

• 4th March Deadline for any barrelled kit for shipping to be collected by freighting company

• 3rd April Fly to Kathmandu

Who we are

Guy Willett, Kenton Cool & friends. We are both IFMGA and British Mountain Guides. This is the highest possible qualification, and a legal requirement to guide in the Alps. All our guides are personally chosen by us for their ability, personality and approach to ensure a great Dream Guides experience.

Our approach

We offer a friendly and personal service. We are passionate about what we do and think this comes through in our guiding! Our goal is to make your mountain holiday or adventure the best you've had...if you are not having fun, neither are we! We can't guarantee achieving your goals but we will try our very best to (and usually do!).

Where are we?

We are based in Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc. We not only have expert knowledge of the fantastic local skiing and climbing, but also nearby Switzerland and Italy aswell. Our guides and office staff have climbed and skied and travelled extensively throughout the world and are a great source of knowledge and expertise for all our courses and expeditions.